Money and Mother Earth

Petrol and diesel is getting expensive by each passing day. As a result cars are getting more and more expensive to run. This is where alternate sources of propulsion chip in. This is where the “green fuels” show their worth.

It was not far in the past when carrying a LPG cylinder to a local mechanic’s workshop was a common sight. Such was the rage that it created quite a stir in the minds of many a big name in the automotive industry. Maruti got so tempted by the whole deal that it launched Wagon-R Duo which ran as efficiently on LPG as it did on petrol. LPG and CNG are looked upon as ‘greener’ fuels and the government too is doing its bit to promote them.

Majority of the public transport in the national capital region and other metros are already running on CNG and the emergence of more refueling outlets is a step in the right direction. It is said that CNG is much safer when compared against petrol, diesel or even LPG because even under leakage it does not liquefy or accumulate. CNG dissipates in the air since it is lighter than air. This makes it less prone to explode or ignite. CNG, when being burnt in the combustion chamber leaves no residue or hydro-carbons. This increases the engine life by a substantial margin. Since it is dry in nature, it does not dilute the lubricating oil which ensures that you end up saving on oil changes and filters as well. It is said that tune-up for an engine running on CNG might not be required till close to about 60,000-70,000km. This in turn results in significant lowering of the operating costs.

At the manufacturer’s level, the initiative of introducing a vehicle capable of running on alternative fuel was taken by Hindustan Motors by offering the Ambassador with CNG option. This was followed with the Maruti Omni and Tata Indica while everybody had a dropped-jaw expression when Chevrolet launched its flagship offering, the Optra with the the CNG option. More and more manufacturers launching CNG powered cars gesticulate at the increasing acceptance of alternate fuels.

The LPG run, recently launched Wagon-R Duo has met with decent success and things can only march northwards from here because even the government has levied a tax of only about 15% as against 38% on petrol and diesel.

So, the question here arises that which among the two, CNG or LPG, makes for a better fuel for our cars? It is observed that in a comparative study between CNG and LPG, LPG gains more acceptance. The tail-pipe emissions are also substantially lesser than other fossil fuels. Also, for the same volume, LPG requires a storage tank one-third in size as that of CNG.

LPG can be fuel injected in much the same way as petrol. With the reduction in quantity, in a normal CNG tank, power decreases by upto 20%. In order to maintain optimum level of engine power, pressure inducing pumps/systems have to be installed. The liquefied petroleum gas on the other hand suffers from no such problems. This is further explained by citing the example of use of this fuel in our kitchens. It burns with the same intensity irrespective of the pressure in the cylinder.

Let us then shift our focus to the sources available to us other than the usual suspects (read petrol and diesel). Let us do our bit to save mother earth. Let us do our bit to help the economy. Let us do our bit to save some money. Let us live a good life. Amen!

Brakes or Breaks? - Explanation on brakes

Going at a high speed, you encounter a kid or a dog or cattle, anything that is a usual sight on Indian roads and you jam the brake pedal. Thats the instant reaction. You literally stand on the pedal hoping for the car to come to a halt in time to avoid a nasty accident. And when it does, you breathe a sigh of relief and thank the 'almighty'. Never do you thank the brakes, do you? Had it not been for this example of technological marvel, you'd surely have crushed that kid or that dog or whatever. Ever wondered how do the brakes operate? Come, let us learn together.

How exactly does that force from your feet result in slowing of the car? The common misconception hass it that the brakes grip against a drum or a disc and the pressure applied is what slows the car. This is just a part of the elaborate explanation. When the brake pedal is pressed, the force from the feet is transmitted to the brakes through a fluid. The force required on the brakes is much higher than the force exerted by the feet, hence the car multiplies that force.

Friction plays an important role in the braking mechanism since the force conveyed to the tyres employs friction as does the transmission of force from the tyres to the road.

Consider the distance of the pedal from the pivot to be five times that of the distance of pedal cylinder to the pivot. Hence the force applied on the cylinder will be five times the force that is applied on the brake pedal.
Now, consider the diameter of the brake cylinder to be three times that of the pedal cylinder, so that further multiplies the force by a factor of nine. In total, such an arrangement increases the total force on the brake pedal by a factor of 45.

There are two types of widely used brakes - disc type and drum type. The disc brakes consist of brake pads, caliper and a rotor that sits on the hub. In the actuation of the disc brake, the brake pads squeeze the rotor which transmits the force hydraulically through a channel.

A moving car has some amount of kinetic energy and it increases with the square of velocity. So, if the speed of a vehicle doubles, the kinetic energy increases four times in magnitude. The kinetic energy of a moving car is converted into thermal energy by the friction between the pads and the disc. Most cars are equipped with ventilated discs in order to facilitate better cooling by dispersing air through the discs. The cooling of the brakes dissipates the hear and the car slows down. Such a phenomena follows the law of conservation of energy which states that energy can neither be created nor destroyed, it can only be converted from one form to the other. So, here the kinetic energy is getting converted into heat/thermal energy.

Drum brakes are more complicated and appear complex when opened up. When the drum brakes are applied, the piston pushes the brake shoes against the drum. The brake shoe interacts with the drum and there is a locking action which has a gripping effect between the shoe and the the drum. The drum brakes employ smaller piston than the disc brakes because the extra force provided by the locking action. When the brake is released, the shoes must pull away from the drum. This requires the use of springs. Another set of springs hold the brake shoes in place while helping the adjuster arm return to its original position.

For effective functioning, the arrangement of the brake shoes is such that the shoes must be close to the drum but should not physically touch it. If the distance between the shoes and the drum increases, then the piston will ask for more fluid to travel that distance. This will result in the brake pedal sinking deeper towards the floor on its application. To prevent this, adjusters are made use of. The adjuster has threads on it. When the gap between the brake shoes and drum increases, the adjuster advances the gear by one tooth, hence filling up the gap. This always keeps the shoes in close contact with the drum.

Two semi-circular brake shoes are housed inside a spinning drum. On the application of brakes, shoes expand outwards making contact with the inside of the drum. The friction created due to this contact in-turn creates heat which transfers kinetic energy which helps in slowing you down. The brake shoe pivots at one end and the entire brake pad does not grip against the brake drum. The leading edge is that part of the brake pad which first comes in contact with the drum and is the pad closest to the actuator.

Several technological advancements have been achieved in the braking department. Brakes now come equipped with additional abbreviations like ABS, EBD etc. All this help in enhancing the safety of the system and the car and in turn it enhances the safety of yours. Brakes have always been an essential and necessary equipment and will always remain so. Give them respect, deep respect.

Regulatory Measures

School Area Traffic Management St. John School to St. Kabir School Vivek High School Carmel Convent
Restricted Entry for Trucks Notification I & II Vigyan Path Notification Map
Notified Inter State Bus Routes Notification I Notification II Notification III - Buses from Delhi-Ambala, Kalka-Shimla going to Chandigarh only - Buses from Ropar side via SAS Nagar going to Delhi-Ambala/Shimla-Kalka through Chandigarh - Buses from Ropar side to Chandigarh and from Chandigarh to Ropar. - Buses from Ludhiana and Morinda side to Chandigarh - Buses from Chandigarh to Ludhiana, Morinda side - Buses from Chandigarh to Shimla,Kalka,Delhi and Ambala - Buses from Ropar side to Kalka, Shimla, Ambala and Delhi via Chandigarh
Traffic Arrangements for State Functions & Festivals Republic Day/Independence Day Total area map | Sector 17 Festival of Gardens (Rose Festival) Total area map | Sector 10 | Sector 16 | Sector 17 Valentine Day | Geri Route of Valentines Day
Speed Limits Law of Speed Limits Notification

Ready to drive

Before driving Ensure that you are comfortable with your mental and physical condition. Inspect your vehicle and observe the driving conditions. While driving you should carry your driving licence, registration certificate, insurance certificate and pollution control certificate. Transport and commercial vehicle drivers should carry the permits and vehicle fitness certificates also. A combination of knowledge, skill and attitude is required to be a safe driver. Knowledge of traffic rules and driving practices that help traffic move safely. Skill to care about the safety of others on the road. We all are responsible for avoiding accidents. Attitude to co-operate with other drivers to keep traffic moving safely. We must be courteous, giving other drivers space to change lanes, not cutting them off and signalling before turning.
Physical and mental alertness
Be in good physical and mental condition before driving. DON'T DRIVE IF YOU have been drinking alcohol. taking any medicine or drug that affects your responses. are tired as tiredness affects your driving skills and reaction time. are sick or injured. are angry or upset. You could be risking your life or lives of others on the road.
Know your vehicle
Go through the vehicle owner's manual. You should know the features of the vehicle you are going to drive. Example - Anti-lock brakes, 4-wheel drive. Ensure you know where the controls and instruments are and what they do. Check that all emergency signals and instruments work. You should be able to turn on wipers, washers, headlights, indicators etc. without having to look at them and without taking your eyes off the road.
Seating position
Proper, upright position gives more stability while driving. Make sure you can see over the steering wheel and hood. You should be able to see the ground 4-5 feet in front of the vehicle for proper judgment. Sit straight upright in the seat with your elbows slightly bent. Adjust the seat so your feet reach the pedals easily. Place your feet flat on the floor under the brake pedal. You are seated properly if you can do this. Adjust the head-rest to proper height. It protects in case of a collision. Cars with air bags: Air bag can cause injuries if the seating position is incorrect.
Have a clear view
You should have a clear view while driving. Make sure nothing blocks your view. The windows of your vehicle should not be coated with any material that blocks your view.
Blind spot is an area on each side of the vehicle that you cannot see through the mirrors. Mostly blind spots are to the back left and back right of the vehicle. In the above graphic, the red car is in the blind spot area of the silver car. The green areas in the above graphic show the blind spots of the silver car. Adjust the mirrors to get the maximum view and identify your blind spots. You may not see vehicles when they are in these spots. Position the interior mirror so that the centre of the mirror shows the centre of the rear window. When the interior mirror is properly adjusted you would be able to see directly behind your vehicle. The exterior (wing) mirror adjustment should be made while seated normally for driving. Do not set the right-hand extrerior mirror by placing your head against the glass of the driver's door window. Do not adjust the left-hand exterior mirror by leaning to the centre of the vehicle. Side mirrors show only narrow angles of view, so you have to turn your head to make sure there is nothing in your blind spots. Check Setting the Wing Mirrors by Eddie Wren. Reverse the 'lefts' and the 'rights' as the write-up is for American drivers.
Fasten your seat belt
Fasten your seat belt before you start. Seat belts are for your safety not just for avoiding challans. Seat belts should be worn comfortable enough to keep you in your seat if there is a collision. Put the shoulder strap over your shoulder, never under your arm. The lap belt should be put low over the hips, not over the stomach. SEAT BELT SAVES LIFE Seat belt keeps you behind the wheel and in control of the vehicle in case of a collision. Seat belt keeps your head and body from hitting the inside of the vehicle. Seat belt keeps you inside the vehicle in a collision. A person who is thrown out of the vehicle during the collision has a higher chance of getting serious injury.
Turn on headlights at night and in poor light conditions
Turn on headlights around 30 minutes before sunset and keep them on until 30 minutes after sunrise. Turn on your lights when fog or rain reduces your visibility to less than 100 meters. Keep your headlights clean and get them adjusted regularly so that they aim properly. In dim light, use your headlights, not parking lights. Parking lights are only for parking. You do not need to use highbeams on Chandigarh roads. If you are travelling on a highway and using highbeam headlights, switch to lowbeams within 150 metres of an oncoming vehicle. Switch to your lowbeams when you are less than 60 metres behind another vehicle.

Protecting the environment

All vehicles emit air pollutants and gases such as oxides of carbon, nitrogen, sulphur, hydrocarbons and soot. These pollutants affect the quality of the air we breathe, our health, crop yields and even the global climate. Planning your drive saves both environment and your money. Before starting off While driving At the garage
Before starting off:
Plan ahead. If you can, avoid driving during rush hours. You can save on fuel. Walk or cycle for short distances and help environment by emitting less pollutants. Try to have a carpool if possible.
Avoid starting your vehicle unnecessarily. A large burst of pollutants is emitted when a cold engine is started. Turn off your vehicle if parked more than 30 seconds. Obey the speed limits. Anticipate traffic movement, slow down in advance so that you have to make the least use of brakes. On the highway, use your vehicle’s overdrive gear for better fuel efficiency. Use your vehicle’s air conditioning wisely. Use your windows and vents in city and stop-and-go traffic.
At the garage:
Regular maintenance keeps your vehicle running efficiently. It reduces your fuel cost and causes less pollution. Keep your vehicle’s engine well tuned. Study the vehicle owner’s manual and do as advised to maximize fuel efficiency. Keeping tires properly inflated reduce petrol bill, emissions and tire wear. Get the vehicle’s alignment checked regularly. This reduces uneven tire wear. Know how engine works

Traffic lights

Red - To stop the traffic Bring your vehicle to a complete halt behind the stop line or cross walk. Wait until the light turns green.
Amber - Caution If your have entered the intersection and the light turns to amber, move on very carefully. If you see the amber light before entering the crossing, stop the vehicle behind the stop line or cross walk.
Green - Go on Go through the crossing carefully. You can turn in the direction of the arrow by giving indicator.
Flashing signals A flashing red signal means you should come to a complete stop and move through the intersection where in it safe to do so. A flashing amber signal warns to drive with caution.
Pedestrian signals These signals help pedestrians cross intersections safely. If you face a steady red human figure, do not enter the road. If the signal starts flashing, cross the road quickly if you are already on the road. Stop, if you are about to join the road. Walk cautiously if you face a steady green human figure.

Hand Signals

If police constables are directing traffic, follow their instructions even if they are different from traffic lights or signs. There might be an emergency situation. Bring your vehicle to a complete stop when a police official signals you to stop.

Driving along

Driving along

Be alert to the traffic around you as you drive. Make a routine of looking behind and from side by checking your mirrors every few seconds. Check your blind spots by turning your head to look over your shoulder. Try to keep other vehicles out of your blind spot by changing your speed and try not to drive in other vehicles' blind spots. Be extra alert at dawn and dusk when drivers have problem adjusting to the changing light. Keep some space around your vehicle. Anticipate other vehicles' movements and make allowances for possible errors. Slow moving vehicles especially cycles, rickshaws, carts have the tendency to turn without giving signal or signaling at a very short notice. Watch for people in parked vehicles — they may be about to pull out in front of you or may open the door without noticing your vehicle.
Steer smoothly
Steer smooth and precise. Do most steering and lane changes having both hands on the steering wheel. You should try to steer in a straight line while shifting gears, adjusting controls or checking your blind spot. Imaging the steering wheel as a clock and keep your hands at nine o’clock and three o’clock or at 10 o’clock and two o’clock. This gives you better control while driving. Cars with air bags: Keep your hands at nine o’clock and three o’clock otherwise air bag can cause injuries. Know how air bag works
Overtaking
Overtaking is changing lanes to move past a slower vehicle. Never overtake other vehicle unless you are absolutely sure you can do so without danger to yourself or others. Points to consider while overtaking a vehicle: Use your right-turn indicator to show that you want to overtake. Check the way ahead and behind is clear before overtaking. Watch out for scooters or motor cycles that may be hidden from view in front of the vehicle you are about to overtake. Watch for vehicles that may be turning right in front of you. After overtaking, give indicator that you want to get back into the lane you started from. Change lane when you can see all the front of the vehicle you are passing in your rear view mirror. Never cut off a vehicle by suddenly moving in front of it. Do not race if the vehicle you are passing speeds up. Get back into your original lane.
Keep left
Keep to the left of the road or in the left-hand lane on multi-lane roads unless you want to turn right or want to overtake another vehicle.

Changing lanes

Changing lanes

You might need to change lanes on roads with more than one lane in the same direction. You may want to change lanes to overtake another vehicle, to avoid a parked vehicle or when the vehicle ahead slows to turn at an intersection. Always give proper signal before changing lanes and ensure the move can be made safely Steps for changing lanes. Check for a space in traffic where you can enter safely. Check your blind spot by looking over your shoulder in the direction of the lane change. Give an indicator in the direction you want to move. Recheck to ensure the way is clear and that no one is coming at a fast speed from behind. Turn steadily into the new lane. Do not change lane suddenly by cutting in front of another vehicles. The other drivers will not be expecting your maneuver. Avoid changes lanes unless required. Don't change lanes in or near an intersection. Spending a few seconds behind another vehicle is often safer than going around it. Overtaking Overtaking is changing lanes to move past a slower vehicle. Never overtake other vehicle unless you are absolutely sure you can do so without danger to yourself or others. Points to consider while overtaking a vehicle: Use your right-turn indicator to show that you want to overtake. Check the way ahead and behind is clear before overtaking. Watch out for scooters or motor cycles that may be hidden from view in front of the vehicle you are about to overtake. Watch for vehicles that may be turning right in front of you. After overtaking, give indicator that you want to get back into the lane you started from. Change lane when you can see all the front of the vehicle you are passing in your rear view mirror. Never cut off a vehicle by suddenly moving in front of it. Do not race if the vehicle you are passing speeds up. Get back into your original lane. Overtaking at night Do not overtake within 30 metres of a pedestrian crossing. When another vehicle wants to overtake you, move to the left and let it pass. Be prepared to slow down to allow the overtaking vehicle get into your lane ahead of you. The other driver may not have anticipated the speed of the oncoming vehicle. Be very careful when you overtake other vehicles at night. Switch your headlights to low beams as you approach a vehicle from behind. Switch your high beams on and off quickly to warn the driver ahead that you are going to overtake.
3.Check your mirrors and blind spot, and pull out to overtake. As you move besides the vehicle you are overtaking, switch on your high beams so that you can see more of the road ahead. of the vehicle you are about to overtake. Watch for vehicles that may be turning right in front of you. 4.When you can see all of the front of the vehicle you are overtaking in your rear view mirror, pull back into the left lane. Give indicator so the other driver knows you are getting back into the lane.
Overtaking on the left
Mostly overtaking is done on the right. Passing on the left can be more dangerous than passing on the right. You can overtake from left on multi-lane or on one-way roads or when vehicle is turning right. If you are driving with a slower vehicle in front of you, wait for the vehicle to move to the left. Do not suddenly change lanes and pass on the left. The driver of the slower vehicle may be moving left to give way to you on the right side.

Useful Tools

• Calculate EMI
• Insurance Premium Calculator
• EMI Comparison

Car Battery

A car battery is principally used to start the engine. It is also used to filter or stabilize power and to provide extra power for the ignition, lighting and other accessories when their combined load exceeds the capability of the charging system, i.e., when the engine is idling. It also provides power to the electrical system when the charging system is not operating. The battery lies hidden under the bonnet and is an essential component of your vehicle. Regular care is a must, for if it in bad shape, the car will refuse to move. "Push-start" is a solution but cannot be carried on for long. A well-maintained battery lasts for two years. Regular care of your battery is a must, otherwise your car will not move. "Push-start" is an option but not a long term solution. A well maintained battery usually lasts for two years.

Points to note when buying a new battery

Climatic conditions determine the kind of battery you should buy. Colder climates require batteries with higher CCA ratings than in a hot climate.

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)

The most important consideration is sizing the battery's CCA rating to meet or exceed, depending on the climate, is the car's OEM cranking requirements. CCA's are defined as the discharge loads measured in amps that a fully charged battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining the voltage above 7.2 volts.

Batteries are sometimes advertised by their Cranking Performance Amps (CA) or Marine Cranking Amps (MCA), which is measured at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) or Hot Cranking Amps.

HCA is measured at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C), which is not the same as CCA. Do not be misled by CA, MCA or HCA ratings. Multiply the CAs by 8 to convert Cas to CCAs. To convert HCAs to CCAs, multiply HCAs by 0.69.

Buying batteries with double or triple CCA ratings that exceed the OEM requirement are a waste of money for hot climates. However, in colder climates the higher the CCA rating the better, due to increased power required to crank a sluggish engine and the inefficiency of the cold battery. As batteries age, they are less capable of producing CCAs.

One of the major battery manufacturers, Exide, publishes the following table:

Available Power from battery	Temperature Degrees F	Power Required to crank engine
100%	80	100%
65%	32	155%
40%	0	210%
25%	-32	350%

If more CCA capacity is required, two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery with more CCA will have more plates because a larger surface area is required to produce the higher current.

Reserve Capacity (RC)

The Reserve Capacity rating is the second most important consideration while buying a battery. This is because of the effects of an increased parasitic (key off) load and in emergencies. Reserve Capacity is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) can be discharged at 25 amps until the voltage falls below 10.5 volts. More RC is better in every case! In a hot climate, for example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking amp requirement, then a 400 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC with more electrolyte would be more desirable than one with 1000 CCA with 90 minutes of RC. If more RC is required, two six-volt batteries can be connected in series or two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery with larger RC will weigh more because it contains more lead.

Type

Low maintenance (non-sealed) and maintenance free (non-sealed or sealed) are the two most common types of car batteries.

The advantages of maintenance free batteries are less preventative maintenance, longer life, faster recharging, greater overcharge resistance, reduced terminal corrosion and longer shelf life, but they are more prone to deep discharge (dead battery) failures due to increased shedding of active plate material.

In hot climates, buying non-sealed batteries is recommended because a sealed battery will not allow you to add water when required, or to test the specific gravity with an external hydrometer. Some manufacturers introduced a third type of car battery, "dual", that combined a standard battery with switchable emergency backup cells. For about the same cost a better approach was to buy two batteries and isolate them.

It is best to buy a commercial or AMG battery for excessive vibration applications. Car batteries are specially designed for high initial cranking amps (usually for five to 15 seconds) to start an engine; whereas, deep cycle (or marine) batteries are designed for prolonged discharges at lower amperage.

A "dual marine" battery is a compromise between a car and deep cycle battery; However, a car battery will give you the best performance in a car. For RVs, a car battery is used to start the engine and a deep cycle battery is used to power the accessories. The batteries are connected to a diode isolator and both are automatically recharged by the RV's charging system when engine is running.

Size

Batteries are generally sold by model, so the group numbers will vary for the same price. This means that for the SAME price you can potentially buy a physically larger battery with more RC than the battery you are replacing, e.g. a 34/78 group might replace a smaller 26/70 group and give you an additional 30 minutes of RC.

If you do this, be sure that the replacement battery will fit, the cables will connect to the correct terminals, and that the terminals will NOT touch the hood when closed.

BCI and the battery manufacturers publish application guides that will contain the OEM cranking amperage requirements and group number replacement recommendations by make, model and year of car, and battery size, CCA and RC specifications. Manufacturers might not build or the store might not carry all the BCI group numbers. To reduce inventory costs, dual terminal "universal" batteries that will replace several group sizes are becoming more popular and fit 75% or more of cars on the road today.

Freshness

Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. A battery that is more than six months old should never be bought because it begins to sulfate. Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate can not be converted back to charged material and is created when discharged batteries stand for a long time or from excessive water loss.

Warranty

As with every thing else, it is necessary that you check the warranty period of the battery before you buy it.

It is extremely important to note that

batteries contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte, which is a highly corrosive poison. It produces gasses when recharged and explode if ignited. When working with batteries, you need to have plenty of ventilation, remove jewelry, wear protective clothing and eyewear (safety glasses), and exercise caution. Whenever possible, you are requested to follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing and charging.

Tires

• Let the tires cool before checking their pressure (tires are more inflated when warm, less when cold).
• Remove the cap from the valve on one tire.
• Press a tire gauge hard onto the valve and note the reading. The sound of escaping air means you haven't inserted the gauge properly: it's either pressed on askew or you're pressing too lightly. (Image 2)
• Add air to achieve recommended pressure, which is listed on a sticker on the driver's side doorjamb and in the car's manual. If you overfill, you can release air by pushing on the tiny metal stem in the center of the valve with a fingernail or the tip of a pen or pencil. If you need to guess, 32 psi (pounds per square inch) is a good rule of thumb for most passenger cars with standard tires.
• Replace the valve cap. (Image 3) 6. Repeat with each tire, including the spare (the status of its pressure is often forgotten until it's needed, and then it's too late).
• Check the tread depth. Recommended depth differs with types of tires. For a standard sedan tire, a penny pushed into the tread can give you a rough reading. If you can see any of Lincoln's head, it may be time to replace the tire. A good tread-depth gauge can give you a more accurate reading. There may also be wear indicators built into the tread; if they show, replace the tire.
• Check for even wear (see "How to Interpret Your Car's Tire Wear.") If the treads on the outside or inside are particularly worn, you may need to rotate your tires or have your alignment checked.
  

The pressure you see on the tire's sidewall is the tire's maximum pressure - a number you don't want to achieve unless you're planning on carrying a very heavy load in your car. A slow leak may be the result of a bad or leaky tire valve. To ensure you're getting an accurate reading, invest in a good tire gauge (which should run around $20). Go ahead and use the recommended pressure stamped on the spare's sidewall to fill it. A smaller "temporary" spare requires about 60 psi.

Test Your Tire Care Know-How

Make regular tire care one of your New Year's resolutions! Find out how much you know about proper tire care by taking this test. The answers appear at the bottom.

Spark Plugs

The spark plug's location exposes it to extreme temperature variations, chemicals, fuels and oils. It is also attacked by cylinder pressures produced by the piston and cam timing, then it is also assaulted by high-output ignition units. As a result of all of this, one can effectively learn what the engine is doing by reading the firing end of the spark plugs.

By careful examination of the plug's color, gap, and any deposits that reside on it, you will be shown the efficiencies as well as deficiencies of what is going on in the engine. Spark plugs should be checked at least yearly, and replaced as often as necessary. In most cases you can follow the manufacturers recommendations, but in a race car, our replacement intervals are quite frequent.

How a Spark Plug Works

The basics of a spark plug is that it must perform two primary functions.

1. To Ignite the Air/Fuel mixture
2. To REMOVE the heat out of the combustion chamber

Spark plugs transmit electrical energy that turns fuel into working energy. A sufficient amount of voltage must be supplied by the ignition system to cause the spark to jump the across the spark plug gap, thus creating what is called Electrical Performance.

Additionally, the temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called Thermal Performance and is determined by the heat range of the spark plug.

It is important to understand that spark plugs CANNOT create heat, only remove it! The spark plug works as a heat exchanger, pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat. The rate of heat is determined by:

• The insulator nose length
• Gas volume around the insulator nose
• Materials and/or construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator

Now to the actual function: As the Ignition is triggered it sends the spark through the rotor, to the cap, down the wire and then it jumps the gap of the spark plug, a spark kernel is created that ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. Proper timing of this spark is not the only concern as described above. You must have the proper heat range (described later) as well as the correct gap.

Opening The Plug Gap:

On weaker or stock ignitions, opening up the gap CAN increase the spark kernel size, thereby creating a more efficient burn. The problem lies in that any added gap creates more strain on the other ignition parts.

• Coils may not have enough stored energy to fire, or in the least case, not enough energy to cross the gap, creating a miss-fire.
• Plug wires will break down due to the added resistance as the spark tries to reach ground.
• Rotor and Cap, as well as points (if you still have an interest in prehistoric ignitions), and the carbon bushing in the center of the distributor cap will show early failures.
  
  

All of this is because the greater the gap and the higher the voltage requirement to jump the gap. Do not forget the gap between the rotor arm to the distributor cap too. A high performance rotor is a bit longer at the tip, allowing less spark loss or chance of spark scatter in the cap as the spark attempts to jump the plug gap.

As many of us know that race, it is also possible to slow down a car if the gap is too big. I will get into this later when I describe proper spark plug gaps.

Spark Plug Heat Range

A spark plug's heat range has no relationship on the actual voltage transferred through the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors:

• The length of the ceramic center insulator nose
• The insulator nose's ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat
• The material composition of the insulator
• The material composition of the center electrode

The longer the insulator nose gives you a larger surface area exposed to combustion gasses and heat is dissipated slowly. This also means the firing end heats up more quickly. We are talking about exposed ceramic length, not extended tip length.

The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where the insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. No matter what the plugs are installed in, be it a lawnmower, a boat, your daily driver or your race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 450°C to 850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 450°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to deter fouling and carbon deposit build-ups, thus causing misfires. If the tip temperature exceeds 850°C, the spark plug will overheat which can cause the ceramic around the the center electrode to blister as well as the electrodes will begin to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage.

In identical spark plugs, the differences from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.

The firing end appearance also depends on the spark plug tip temperature. There are three basic diagnostic criteria for spark plugs: good, fouled, and overheated. The borderline between the fouling and optimum operating regions (450°C) is called the spark plug self-cleaning temperature. This is the temperature point where the accumulated carbon and combustion deposits are burned off automatically.

Bearing in mind that the insulator nose length is a determining factor in the heat range of a spark plug, the longer the insulator nose, the less heat is absorbed, and the further the heat must travel into the cylinder head water journals. This means that the plug has a higher internal temperature, and is said to be a "Hot" plug. A hot spark plug maintains a higher internal operating temperature to burn off oil and carbon deposits, and has no relationship to spark quality or intensity.

Conversely, a "Cold" spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range can be necessary when an engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or it is run at high RPMs for significant periods of time. The higher cylinder pressures developed by high compression, large camshafts, blowers and nitrous oxide, not to mention the RPM ranges we run our engines at while racing, make colder plugs mandatory to eliminate plug overheating and engine damage. The colder type plug removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the chance of pre-ignition/detonation and burn-out of the firing end. (Engine temperatures can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plug's heat range).

Influences on Spark Plug Temp and Performance

Below is a list of possible external influences on a spark plug's operating temperatures. The following symptoms or conditions may have an affect on the actual temperature of the spark plug. The spark plug cannot create these conditions, but it must be able to deal with all the levels of heat, otherwise performance will suffer and engine damage can occur:

Air/Fuel Mixtures seriously affect engine performance and spark plug temps.

• Rich air/fuel mixtures cause tip temperature to drop, causing fouling and poor drivability.
• Lean air/fuel mixtures cause plug tip and cylinder temperatures to increase resulting in pre-ignition, detonation, and possibly serious spark plug and internal engine damage.
• It is important to read spark plugs many times during the tuning process to achieve optimum air/fuel mixture. Computer-controlled engine applications do a pretty good job of this with the various sensors that report back to the ECM.
• Higher Compression Ratios and Forced Induction will elevate spark plug tip and in-cylinder temperatures.
• Compression can be increased by performing any one of the following modifications:
  • a) reducing combustion chamber volume (i.e.: domed pistons, smaller chamber heads, milling heads, etc.)
  • b) adding forced induction (Nitrous, Turbocharging, Supercharging)
  • c) camshaft change
• As compression increases, a colder heat range plug is required, as well as higher octane fuel and paying careful attention to ignition timing and air/fuel ratios are also necessary.

Advanced Ignition Timing: Advancing timing by 10° causes plug temperature to increase by approximately 70°C to 100°C.

Engine Speed and Load: Increases in firing-end temperatures and are proportional to engine speed and load. When traveling at a constant high rate of speed, or carrying/pushing very heavy loads, a colder heat range spark plug should be installed.

The heavier your vehicle or greater the amount of work the engine sees (racing applications, construction trucks, vans, RVs & Motorhomes, etc.), the more critical this becomes.

Ambient Air Temperature

• As air temperature falls, air density volume increases, resulting in leaner air/fuel mixtures. This creates higher cylinder pressures and temperatures that causes an an increase in the spark plug's tip temperature. Fuel delivery should be increased.
• As temperature increases, air density decreases, as does intake volume, and fuel delivery should be decreased.

Humidity: As humidity increases, air volume decreases. The result is lower combustion pressures and temperatures, causing a decrease in the spark plug's temperature and a reduction in available power. Air/Fuel mixture should be leaner, depending on ambient air temperature.

Barometric Pressure and Altitude

• Affects the spark plug's temperature
• The higher the altitude, the lower the cylinder pressure becomes. As the cylinder temperature decreases, so does the tip temperature.
• Many tuners attempt to "chase" tuning by changing spark plug heat ranges.
• The real answer is to play with the jetting or air/fuel mixtures in an effort to put more air back in the engine.
  

Spark Plug Types and Designs

There are hundreds of different spark plug types designed for different engines as well as specific applications. The two main ones we use in racing are the standard tip and extended tip. It is my opinion that any time you can use the extended tip, do it! The longer tip gets the spark kernel started further into the center of the bore for a more complete combustion process. This is also achieved with the better aftermarket cylinder heads on many available engine applications. The newer heads position the spark plug location closer to a more optimum location.

But, there are also specially designed spark plugs that are supposed to increase the spark kernel size. You see, the larger the spark kernel that is generated by the spark jumping the electrode gap, the more complete burn, the better power and efficiency and the smoother the car will run for longer periods of time. These specially designed plugs will have multiple angles that allow the spark to find the easiest path as well as getting the spark kernel out from under the ground electrode which can quench the kernel size limiting it's size and expansive growth.

Of these plugs, there are those that work, those that are hype, and those that are a great idea but they are manufactured by companies whose only purpose is profit instead of quality. Use common sense and don't believe all the hype that a marketing company bombards you with.

One thing to be wary of is plug material. Of the plugs I've tested, the fine-wire gold plugs have made the best power, but at the price of a short life, which requires short replacement intervals. The Platinum plugs are only good for longevity, though most imports run better with a platinum plug. This has to do with the material of the cylinder head and engine block and the plugs ability to properly ground.

People always ask my plug recommendations. I must say that I like the NGK V-Power Plugs, the Champion Premium Fine-Wire Gold plugs, and the Nippondenso U-Groove plugs for domestics. In the Imports, the Bosch or NGK Platinum plugs usually work best. I have been testing the AC RapidFire plugs currently and I must say I am impressed by the results. Plugs that are useless to me are the Split-Fire plugs (poor materials actually an Autolite plug with the "V" tip), and of course the Autolite plug itself. I have seen the most failures and poor performance out of these plugs. This is not a bash session, so those of you that love your Split-Fires or Autolites, I'll wait for you at the finish line.

RFI or "Radio Frequency Interference

Many people believe that spark plugs fire instantly. This is partly true because they fire in milliseconds, although if one looks at an oscilloscope pattern you will see much more than a single instantaneous firing event. Many things also occur that you cannot see even with the oscilloscope. Part of what you cannot see, but can in many cases hear, is the noise that is picked up in the speakers of your car stereo. This is called RFI, or Radio Frequency Interference.

Spark Plug Firing Voltages

When the breaker points or solid state ignition unit (switching device) interrupts current flow in the primary ignition circuit and induces current flow into the secondary windings of the coil, there is an instantaneous voltage spike. (as seen in the illustration at right in position A to B). This represents the voltage required to overcome the spark plug and distributor rotor gaps. Once the spark gaps have been bridged, the secondary voltage required to sustain the spark across the gap is much less and drops (as seen in position B to C above). The spark continues to arc across the gap at more or less constant voltage until the arc is extinguished (at position D above). This is due to coil energy drop in that it can not sustain the spark any longer. During this arc duration (Spark Duration), the plug actually fires several times. This is caused by high frequency oscillations in the primary and secondary windings of the coil, which continues to induce voltage spikes. They continue and slowly diminish (positions D to E above) even after they are no longer strong enough to sustain spark. All of this takes place in roughly one thousandth of a second.

With our race designed ignition units, they concentrate their efforts on sustaining spark duration as well as limiting the voltage drop after the gaps have been bridged. Most aftermarket ignitions concentrate on giving us 20° of spark duration (crank degrees) as well as much higher spark energy output. A high performance coil helps this out, but the Capacitive discharge and digital ignition units assist in storing and delivering this power through the coil more efficiently, faster and give the ability to achieve higher RPMs more safely and efficiently in fuel mixture burning. The coil is only the pawn of the ignition trigger or control unit. The coil is the real workhorse and takes most of the abuse ... make sure you use a good coil. (Read below about aftermarket ignition amplifiers and controls)

The Cause of RFI

If we were to slow down the oscilloscope to perhaps 0.00000025 seconds and greatly expand the pattern (as pictured at right), we would see that what appears to be consistent from position C to D in the the first illustration above is actually a series of extremely high bursts of energy. These energy bursts are discharged at the same frequency band as radio and TV frequencies. It is these bursts that make your car radio snap - crackle - and pop ... as well as just about anything electronic including telephones, aircraft control towers and heart pace makers by causing static and interference.

Sources of RFI

Automotive ignition systems are not the only things that spew RFI into the atmosphere. Lawn mowers, snowmobiles, ATV's, tractors, power lines, traffic control devices, etc. all do it. One publication refers it to "electronic air pollution". As many of us know, we live in a sea of constant electromagnetic waves.

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Any time you have a flow of electric current you will have a magnetic field. Coils, relays, switches, solenoids, generators, servomotors all affect communication equipment, electronic circuits and computers. The higher the voltages, the more critical this becomes. Anytime you have the spark jump a gap or a contact, you have a miniature radio transmitter.

RFI Standards

Back in the 1930's, engineers recognized that RFI could be a nuisance. As the years, testing and technology advancements went by, it turned into an even greater problem. Especially with the advent of high-tech communications systems, computers and electronic engine control devices. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) decided to set up standards for measuring as well as the control of RFI. These are called "EMI Standards" or the more technical name for radio static of Electromagnetic Interference (EMI).

The current standard for EMI was adopted in 1961 and is known as J551. It limits RFI at frequencies between 20-1,000 MHz. All spark plug manufacturers must adhere to it. The most common method used to suppress RFI is to install a resistor in series with the spark plug's center electrode.

Adding an Aftermarket Ignition Unit (Amplifier)

OK, I felt I had better address this now. There are numerous ignition units available that say they give you "X" horsepower gain, or do this or that for your engine. In most cases the ignition unit will benefit your engine, but is it needed? To decide if adding an ignition unit to your vehicle is going to be worthwhile you need to ask yourself a few simple questions:

• Am I trying to get maximum spark energy, engine efficiency, lowered emissions, and power output from my engine?
• Am I modifying the engine (cams, head porting, exhaust system, larger carbs/injectors, compression, or any other assortment of aftermarket performance parts) so that cylinder pressures will be increased?
• Am I adding a serious power enhancer (Nitrous, Supercharger, Turbocharger, etc)?
• Am I planning on racing the vehicle?
• Am I increasing the RPM range of the engine?

If you answered YES to even one of the questions above you could consider the addition of one of the available ignition units. If you answered YES to 2 or more of the above questions, you'd better install a quality ignition amplifier (Mallory Hyfire, Holley Annihilator, Crane Hi-6, MSD, etc).

Of course there is going to be B.S, hype from many ignition manufacturers, and the facts surrounding what an ignition unit can really do.

Some Facts

• A small power increase and strides in efficiency will be seen in most cases. Note that if you are racing, not having a good ignition amplifier can cause serious power loss and engine damage if the air/fuel mixture is not ignited properly
• Without the correct or adequate coil the ignition unit cannot do its job properly
• Analog ignition units are slow and not as good as digital units
• Opening up your plug gaps just because you have added an amplifier CAN SLOW YOU DOWN and cost your horsepower. (read below)
• Not all ignition units are the same (Inductive amplifier and Capacitive Discharge amplifier, not to mention brands)
• If it takes 10k volts to fire your spark plug, that is what you will get. Just because you have a bazillion volt system does not mean the box will give that to your plugs and combustion process. Don't believe that just because the ignition has the highest "millijoule" rating that it is the best.
• Using the wrong coil can have serious implications (we have seen coils overheat, boil over, and catch the vehicle on fire because the coil could not handle what the box was telling it to do).
• Not all ignition triggers are equal (breaker point, magnetic, magnetic breakerless, hall effect, photo optic, etc). Each can affect the efficiency of your ignition unit.
• One of the main benefits of an ignition amplifier is the spark duration of 20° crank degrees per spark. (this is the B to C distance on the chart above under RFI)

Proper Plug Gapping

• Proper gapping of the spark plug is necessary to get maximum spark energy, lowest RFI release as well as what is best for the longevity of the secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs).
• When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap.
• When increasing the gap size for our high performance applications utilizing advanced ignition systems such as Mallory, Accel, Jacobs, Crane and Holley ... it is important never to go more than plus or minus .008". This is to maintain parallel surfaces between ground and the center electrodes.
• Something many do not know, is that with Higher Compression ratios and Superchargers as well as Nitrous, in many cases smaller spark plug gaps must be used as well as the use of a much hotter ignition system (see above). These higher cylinder pressures require more energy to jump the spark plug gap.
• The rule of thumb on plug gaps is to open them up in .002" increments at a time. When the car (race vehicle) begins to lose power or slow down then go back .001-.002" and this in most cases is the optimum gap

Wipers and Washer

Wipers keep the windshield clear in bad weather and are essential for safe driving. For the wipers to workefficiently keep both the windshields and wipers clean by washing them once a week. Clean the inside of the windshield as well to maintain good visibility.

The squeegees are that part of the wiper system that actually cleans the windshield. They are made of rubber. Air pollution time and weather affect this rubberised portion and hence they should be replaced every six to twelve months.

To test the squeegees wash the windshield and the squeegees with mild and warm soap water. Rinse thoroughly and wet the windshield again. Now run the wipers through a complete circle. If they skip or skid replace the squeegees with new ones.

The blade assembly should distribute pressure evenly along the entire length of the squeegees. If the mental is bent or the swivel joints are corroded then the wipers may miss sweeping some areas of the glass and may need replacement.Wiper arms contain tension springs that exert the correct pressure on the blade. In case the spring is damaged or broken the arms must be replaced.

The common windshield wiper problems are smearing chattering and water beads.

Washers: To clean the windshield adequately not only wipers but also the washers must be in good operating condition. Basically all windshield water systems contain a reservoir to hold the washing solution a pump operated either by an electric motor or rarely by foot nozzles to deliver the spray to the windshield and the tubing to connect the nozzle and the pump.

If very little or no washing solution is delivered to the shield when operated then first check if the reservoir contains enough solution. Sometimes washer failure is caused by kinks in the tubing or when dirt clogs the system. Straighten the kinks and clean the system thoroughly. But in case the pump becomes unserviceable replace the entire system with another pump.

Before taking off on a long drive or trip be sure to check both the wipers and the washer - both should function well enough to render your shield clean and clear.

UnderstandingMusic System

Bored of driving long stretches or waiting at traffic jams? Install a music system. Listening to your favourite music while driving will alleviate the boredom of those long drives.

Before you buy one check out the important factors to look for in a system. Blaupunkt Sony Kenwood Philips and Pioneer have been the five major brands. While Blaupunkt Sony Philips and Kenwood are available in India Pioneer is still imported. The next best choice is an Aiwa or JVC.

Start Off With a Good Head Unit

A good head unit is the most important part of the system. A head unit with high voltage RCA outputs is useful for fitting amplifiers. High voltage outputs allow better noise immunity but if the speakers are run from the built in amplifiers in the head unit there is no need to worry about RCA output. Head units and amplifiers need to have impeccable sound quality and no noise (background noise or alternator noise) whatsoever. Paying slightly more and getting a CD Changer controls will enable you to simply plug in a changer in the future even if you are getting a cassette or MD head unit for the present.

Enter The Speakers

Installed in the front in the dash and the rear they are definitely the most important aspect that determines how the whole system sounds. No equalizer or processor can compensate for poorly installed speakers.

Amplifiers

Amplifiers not only make a system sound louder they also make it sound better. Look for reputed brands. The size and the weight of the amplifier are important. The different types of amplifiers are A B C D of which the class B amplifiers are the most common.

Equalizers

Used to fine-tune a system. They are valuable instruments to flatten a system s frequency response (making the levels the same at all frequencies). There are two types of equalizers the mono and the stereo. The main difference between mono and stereo EQs is that a mono EQ has only one input and one output and a stereo has two inputs and two outputs. Many people use mono EQs for the greater control they give over the system.

Subwoofer

They are generally designed to handle the entire treble plus the bass down to around 100-200 Hz. Subwoofers add lower frequencies to the system. With the exception of the free air subwoofers a lot depends on how well they are mounted and enclosed in a box. They need more power than the speakers because they are bigger and have to move more air. Go in for a Sony Pioneer or a Kenwood amplifier for the front speakers and a better high current amplifier for the sub woofers.

Power Considerations

It is better to have more power than what you need to get clearer sound. A high power amplifier allows the volume in the system to be higher. More power means cleaner sound. A minimum of 30 to 50 watts is what is required for the speakers. Contrary to popular belief too much power will not damage the speakers. Speakers are damaged because of distortion. Therefore a bigger amplifier enables higher volumes without distortion.

Upgrading

Powerful amplifiers are expensive so it is better to get a 2channel amplifier to drive the sub woofers at acceptable levels. It can be upgraded later with an identical amplifier and each of the subwoofers powered with an amplifier in the bridged mode for more bass.

Quality Counts

It is always better to buy quality components which will definitely increase performance of the system.

How secure is your system?

There are many security options for head units nowadays. Among them the detachable stereos are the most common option. The front part of the radio comes off rendering the rest of the unit useless. Yet another security protection pioneered by Kenwood is a flat panel that covers the radio when the ignition key is turned off. Some radios such as Blaupunkt are using a smart card that when removed renders the unit useless.

Now you are all set to drive off into the horizon not a care in the world with petrol in the tank headphones in place and the music in your heart...what more could one ask for?

Driving in the rain

Driving in the rain

Ever experienced losing control, even if it was momentarily, under wet conditions? The answer may be, in all certainties, a yes for most of us. Losing control of your car in wet is a frightening situation that may have you land up in a soup. Drive slowly and carefully to prevent skids. On the curves, steer and brake with a light touch. If you want to stop, make sure that you do not brake hard or lock up the wheels, lest you end up skidding. Even if you do lose control and end up skidding, do not panic as it will only add to the trouble. Stay calm, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and steer the car carefully in the direction you want the front of the car to go. If your car comes equipped with ABS then modulate the use of brakes as you steer the car. Aquaplaning is another severe predicament that happens when the water in front of your tires builds up faster than your car's weight can push it out of the way. The water pressure causes the car to slide on a thin layer of water between the tires and the road surface. At this point, your car can be completely out of contact with the road, and you are in danger of skidding or drifting out of your lane, or even off the road. To avoid getting yourself in such a situation, keep your tires properly inflated, maintain good tread on your tires and replace them when necessary. Slow down when you experience wet roads, and stay away from puddles. Try to drive in the tire tracks left by the cars in front of you. Avoid using brakes or turning suddenly. This could throw your car into a slide. Ease off the gas pedal until the car slows down to the extent that you can feel the roadagain. If you need to brake, do it gently with light pumping actions. If your car employs ABS, use the brakes normally. This will see the ABS actuating the brake force as is required to prevent any loss of grip.

Night Driving

Night Driving Tips

According to a survey, death rate due to accident fatalities at night is three times more than that in the day. There are many hazards associated with driving at night and most of us don’t know of ways to deal with them. The primary reason why night driving is so dangerous is darkness. Ninety percent of a driver’s reaction depends on vision which is severely limited at night. Depth perception, color recognition, and peripheral vision are compromised after sundown. The more your age, the lesser is your viewing capability at night. A 50-year-old driver may need twice as much light to see as well as a 30-year old. Fatigue is another major contributor towards danger when driving at night. Weariness slows the reaction time and lowers the concentration level. Alcohol plays a leading role in fatal traffic crashes, causing about half of all motor vehicle-related deaths. That makes weekend nights more dangerous. More fatal crashes take place on weekend nights than at any other time in the week. So please, no matter how clichèd, DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE. There are a number of things that one can put into use to minimize the dangers of driving after-dark

Clean the headlights, taillights, signal lights and windows (inside and out) regularly. Have your headlights properly aligned. Ill-aligned light beam blind other drivers and reduce your ability to see the road. Alcohol severely impairs your driving ability. It also acts as a depressant. Just one drink can induce fatigue. Avoid smoking when you drive. Nicotine and carbon monoxide hinder night vision Being seen is as important as seeing. Do throw the main beam whenever under doubt about something on the road. This might hamper your visibility but the oncoming traffic will be able to see you clearly. Increase your ‘trailing’ distance when following a vehicle since it is difficult to judge a vehicle’ s speed and distance at night. When following a vehicle, make sure that you do not use high beam as it can blind the driver in the front. If the oncoming traffic does not lower its beam then to avoid glare, watch the edge of the road and use it as a steering guide. Stop regularly and treat yourself to light snacks and energy drinks to maintain the concentration levels. Also do some stretching exercises to flex your body muscles. Twilight is one of the most difficult times to drive because your eyes are constantly adjusting to the changing and dying intensity of light which ultimately results in darkness. Practice utmost caution while driving during this period.

How to estimate car's mileage?

"What is my car's mileage?" is an obvious question in every car owner's mind. It really doesn't matter what is your financial status or how many and which cars do you own, but when it comes to know about your car's mileage, you are curious.

Estimating your car's mileage/fuel economy is the simplest task if you know to do it and is toughest if you don't. Even if you really don't care about your car's mileage, we suggest you should estimate your car's mileage once in a while to know your car's health. If your car's mileage is qiuite below the normal mark, consider the fact something wrong is going on within the engine and it might trouble you very soon. Another point of consideration is environment. Cars with bad fuel efficiency tend to pollute the environment more.

Here is a simple way of estimating a car's mileage.

Full-to-Full:

1. Go to the filling station and fill the fuel tank completely. Completely means completely!
2. As soon as you enter your car, note the odometer reading (kilometers done) before even starting it. This reading is start reading.
3. Keep driving the car as you usually do.
4. Once your fuel gauge is saying you have emptied the tank upto an extent, maybe half or three-fourth, visit a nearby filling station. If its same station you last filled your tank then its better, at least you won't be suspicious about filling station.
5. Note down the quantity of fuel it took to fill the tank completely.
6. Fill the tank completely once again.
7. Note odometer reading once again. Take down it as finish reading.
8. Now calculate average/mileage/fuel economy of your car as:
9. Average = (Finish reading - Start reading) / Fuel quantity.

Note: You can try out the same procedure with AC on and AC off, to know your car's fuel economy in both states separately.

Car driving tips

Drive to save fuel

hether you are an occasional or an every day driver, you can decrease the amount of fuel you use by taking the energy saving steps described in this pamphlet

Driving Skills

The driving technique of the person behind the wheel is the most important single factor in determining the fuel economy of a particular car. A fuel economy conscious driver can achieve 30 to 50% better mileage than most other drivers by practising the following instructions:

The Driver Attitude

1. Always think about fuel economy while you drive.
2. Always drive for fuel economy.
3. Avoid driving when you are angry or upset.
4. Consider using public transportation when ever possible.

The 30 Seconds Warm Up

• Idle your engine during its initial start no more than 30 seconds. Car engines warm up faster when they are in motion.
• Idling more than 30 seconds not only wastes fuel but also does harm to your engine, since oil can't do its best lubricating job unless the car is in motion.
• Depress the accelerator just once as added pumping wastes fuel.
• Do not rev up the engine before turning it off. This dumps raw fuel on the cylinder walls; washing away the protective lubricating oil film and increasing engine wear at the next start. This also wastes fuel.

Avoid Screeching Starts

• Jerky acceleration or screeching starts can increase fuel consumption by reducing approximately one kilometer per litre in city driving.
• Accelerate briskly, but smoothly, upto 50 kmph. . Then moderately up to 65 kmph... then keep a steady pressure on the accelerator... just enough to maintain speed.

Drive at Moderate Speeds

• Always rely on the feather foot pressure approach on the accelerator; this will result in even better fuel savings.
• Observing 80 kmph speed limit saves fuel and money.
• Driving below speed limits on highways produces even greater fuel savings
  

Avoid Low Gears... Get Up To Speed Quickly

• Keep your car's speed up and over 35 kmph mark when you can.
• Skip a gear (go from 1st to 3rd or 4th) if you are on a flat road or slope.
• Run through all gears quickly and gently if going up hill.
• With automatic transmission, get the car rolling, then let up the accelerator, easing into high range quickly.

Hill Climbing Techniques

Driving on hill consumes more fuel than driving on flat roads. The following tips will help in fuel economy:

• Build up speed before approaching a hill, to avoid fuel wasting hard acceleration.
• The momentum developed will carry the vehicle over the crest, and gravity will help the vehicle go down the other side.

Keep Tyre Pressure Up

Under inflated tyres can increase fuel consumption significantly. Please refer to Driver Energy Tips No. 2 "Wheel Alignment and Tyre Maintenance" for more information.

Avoid Short Trips...

• Travel distances of 1 to 8 kilometers are considered as short trips.
• Short trips impose heavy fuel penalties on fuel economy due to cold vehicle parts, cold tyres and improper engine lubrication.
• It takes approximately 25 kilometers drive for fuel efficient operation of a vehicle.
• Avoid starting the engine until you are actually ready.
• Plan ahead. Combine your shopping errands into one trip.
• Include shopping trips into normal commuting trip.
• Travel during off peak hours when there is less traffic congestion.
• Operating air conditioner in city traffic reduces fuel economy by approximately 9%.
• Park in the first reasonable parking space available.